Reprinted with permission from GolfCarCatalog.com
STEP 1 - Visual Inspection & Cleaning the Engine Compartment:
a.
Before any cleaning begins on a gas engine, take a very close look
at the engine, engine components and engine compartment. Keep an eye
out for wet spots that indicate an oil or gas leak from the engine or
related parts. One spot to look at in particular is the crankshaft between
the drive clutch and the engine case. A crankshaft seal can become weak
and allow oil (or oil and gas in 2 cycle engines) to leak, leaving telltale
oil around. Also look carefully at the engine case just inboard of the
drive clutch-most modern 4 cycle engines have a split case that is sealed
with a paper gasket that can leak. The older 2 cycle engines have a
split case that will spring a leak as well, but they are harder to detect.
Look for a very clean spot amongst the dirt. Worse, they have a paper
gasket that seals the cylinder base to the engine case. Once this gasket
is compromised, the engine's low-end compression starts to weaken. This
leads to weak fuel pump pressure and eventually to harder (if not impossible)
starting. This can happen even with excellent top-end compression. On
the 4 cycle engines, check around the valve cover gasket (usually on
top of the engine), look around the carburetor for possible gas leaks
(please don't be smoking), check to assure that the oil dipstick is
in place and the oil fill hole has a cap in place-you don't want to
allow water into the crankcase. You might even check the around the
differential (rear end) and at the backs of the wheels where the brake
cables attach. Wheel seal leaks permit oil from the rear end to leak
into the brake drums, contaminate the brake shoes and this greatly reduces
braking efficiency. Slight amounts of oil and dirt on & around the
engine are not cause for great concern. If there is a wet looking spot
and everything else around the spot is dry, you may have reason for
worry. If an area on the engine has a lot of oil around it and others
areas do not, make a mental note and continue to watch that area in
the future after the engine has dried off. If fresh oil or wetness persists
then an oil or gas leak may be indicated. Needless to say we have all
the necessary parts to repair these problems, and the parts for the
tune up procedures that follow.
b. Gasoline powered golf cars have their own particular concerns
with grease and dirt and battery corrosion. A good place to start your
tune up is to thoroughly clean the entire engine compartment. Start
by applying an acid neutralizing/cleaning agent to the battery top,
sides and rack. Just let it sit and work for a few moments. Then spray
a can of 'Gunk' Degreaser, purchased beforehand at your local auto parts
store and follow the directions. Generally, you spray it on the engine
components & frame, let it sit a few minutes and then spray it off
using a high pressure tip on a garden hose, preferably with warm or
hot water, and then let it drip dry. Pay particular attention to the
battery terminals and rack. Direct the spray around the four sides of
the battery and don't forget the interior body panels. Remember, the
fairway grass and dirt picked up on the golf course is very corrosive.
NOTE: If the engine is relatively clean and a light coating of dust and dirt the main culprit, just a battery neutralizing and thorough wash down with the hose may be all that is required. You are not trying to conquer every spot, just keep the compartment relatively clean. It is very difficult to properly service an engine that is caked with dirt and dust. It gets everywhere you don't want it to be. Grit does not help an engine's internal components…ever!
CAUTION:
DO NOT perform this job 15 minutes before tee time. Sometimes getting
water on the starter and drive belts will cause them to slip. Allow
at least one hour or more for the car to sit and dry.
c. Now is a good time to check the air filter, the fuel filter
and the oil level. The purpose of an air filter is to stop airborne
dust and grit from entering the engine and contaminating the cylinder
walls, piston rings and engine oil. I have seen air filters that will
support a potato crop. Not good! A dirty air filter can reduce engine
efficiency by as much as 10% and lead to premature engine failure. Fuel
filters perform the same function for the gasoline. Dirty fuel will
carry chunks of debris that can clog the very small passages in the
carburetor and cause the car to run poorly, if at all. I have seen dirty
fuel filters actually prevent a car from running because they are so
clogged. Buy your fuel from a high volume gas station and don't go on
the days they fill the tanks. This is extra important for those with
2 cycle engines. Bad gas (especially if it contains water) runs through
the entire engine, upper end and lower end, and can permanently damage
or lock up the main crankshaft and lower connecting rod bearings. The
piston can also seize against the cylinder wall, even if the normal
lubrication is present. Does this sound expensive? These filters are
inexpensive items that make a big difference to engine life. They will
not prevent water-contaminated fuel from entering the engine but they
still go a long way in protecting your investment. Replace them regularly.
I can't say enough about engine oil. Keep it clean and especially keep
it topped up. Regular 30 weight motor oil (or 10W30 in colder climes)
is fine. The same oil you use in the auto. If you change the oil please
recycle it. Local auto repair garages or your municipality will guide
to the proper disposal. Remember that the oil filter is considered toxic
waste and should be disposed of in a similar manner.
NOTE:
Be careful not to overfill the engine with oil. Excess oil will find
its way to the air filter, soaking it and eventually getting into the
combustion chamber causing smoky and uneven running of the engine, even
fouling out spark plugs. Oil is the absolute lifeblood of any gasoline
engine. If it is low or dirty or too old (thick & black when you
look at it on the dipstick) make arrangements to have it changed. I
cannot stress this too much. Even if the damage is not severe enough
to kill the engine, rest assured that no good comes from this condition.
Change oil at least once a year, more often if you use the car a lot,
especially in dusty areas. Owners of golf cars with 2 cycle engines
must not neglect the oil either. Adequate oil supply is imperative at
all times. Just a few moments without and irreversible damage is done,
even though the engine still works. I have heard many engines run with
main bearings that sing like me in the shower, but God knows they are
not long for this world! Take this time, and every time you refill the
gas tank, to double check the oil reservoir. The engines don't use much
and it may take a year or more to run low…so it's easy to forget.
Is the cap cracked? If so, click here. Are there signs of an oil leak
from the tube running to the oil pump or to the carburetor? Never, never,
never allow any water into the oil reservoir…it sinks to the bottom
and goes directly into the engine and wreaks havoc, just like water
in the gas will do. If you mix the oil and gas in the tank, be very
careful to measure the oil portions with a measuring cup. Be precise…too
little oil hurts the engine. Too much will cause the spark plug to foul,
the exhaust to be smoky (& smelly) and the muffler to clog with
unburned oil. Use a good marine type, TC-W3 rated, 2-cycle oil, mixable
to at least a 128:1 ratio of gas to oil. That means one (1) ounce of
oil to one (1) gallon (128 oz) of gas. Unleaded gas, regular gas (the
cheap stuff) is A-OK. NOTE: Not all 2-cycle gas engines use a 128:1
gas/oil mix. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations.
d. Now is also a great time to check the condition of your plugs.
Without adequate spark, your car may experience starting difficulty,
sputtering, or cutting out. Remove the plug(s) for inspection. Clean
and check the spark gap based on the manufacturer's recommendations.
There should be no melting or burning present. The exact spark gap will
depend on the type of engine you have - 2 or 4 cycle. Remember that
a trade off exists between the larger gap that provides a hotter flame
versus a smaller gap which provides a hotter flame. Always follow the
manufacturer's recommendations for the correct spark plug gap. Fouled
spark plugs are indicated by a wet, black appearance. This could be
caused by a dirty air filter element or other restrictions in the air
intake system. Incorrectly adjusted valves, spark plug wires which are
in poor condition or poor quality fuel could also contribute to the
problem. replace fouled plugs. Tighten new plugs to 18 ft/lbs. (24Nm)
torque.
STEP 2 - Maintaining & Servicing the Battery:
WARNING 1: For your personal safety always, always, always remove all metal rings from fingers, watchbands or bracelets from wrists or any loose hanging necklaces. If the jewelry becomes a short circuit between batteries, it will ruin your day…not to mention that cherished jewel!
WARNING 2: Eye safety is a vital concern too. Wear eye protection! A spark from a cigarette (NO! NO! NO!) or an inadvertent battery short, such as a dropped tool (or ring), can cause a battery to explode, spew battery acid and possibly catch fire (I know this from 'lucky' personal experience, thank you). Extreme caution is indicated. At best an exploding battery will put the hurt to your ears and a twitter to your heart for a few minutes. Should you ever drop a wrench or other tool onto a battery top-BACK AWAY IMMEDIATELY!!!!! It's a whole lot better, and cheaper, to replace a battery than have an Emergency Room visit. Retrieve the tool after the smoke clears.
a. First make sure all the cell caps are snuggly attached. Most modern 12-volt batteries are ‘Maintenance Free’. Ha! If your charging system is overcharging the battery, it will boil water out just like the old batteries did. Usually the cell covers can be removed and the water checked. Be careful if you remove the caps not to introduce dirt and other contaminants into the cells. If water is needed, use distilled water if possible. A Battery Filler Bottle will help you get just the right amount of water in each cell and you can use this durable, inexpensive, bottle for you car/truck too!
Local
tap water may or may not be suitable to use, it depends on the quality
and trace minerals present in the water. If you do find the electrolyte
level of the battery to be low it can be due to the starter/generator
overcharging the battery. This significantly shortens the life of any
lead acid battery. It is simple test to check the voltage output of
the generator but it does require a multi-tester or ‘VOM’.
You can generally get an inexpensive one at a Radio Shack. Makes a great
gift for the old man, ladies
b. Carefully wriggle the positive and negative battery cable
ends side-to-side and gently up & down. There should be no looseness
or movement. If there is then the cable end needs to be tightened some
more. The up & down motion should not cause the cable terminal end,
which is secured to the battery post, to flex…it should be rigid
to the post. The cable itself can flex but the metal terminal end should
not. If it does easily flex, or worse, it's downright floppy, you may
have a battery cable end about to give it up. Fix it before it fixes
you, where you least expect it! Also inspect the ground cable that runs
from the battery negative to the frame of the car. DO NOT overlook the
battery ground of a gas car. A bad or faulty ground will drive you nuts!
It will cause one to look everywhere, except at the ground, for an electrical
problem because it seems as though the problem HAS to be elsewhere.
DO THE SIMPLE STUFF FIRST!!! Start with the basics and then move to
the more complex. If the ground cable at the frame looks rusty or corroded,
remove it & CLEAN IT.
c. If the battery cables have the old style terminals that encircle
the battery post and have a bolt to clamp it tight to the post (which
is just about obsolete), then follow this tip. Remove and examine the
inside of the collar of each battery connector. The lead should be shiny
and bright on both the outside of the battery post and on the inside
of the lead 'banjo' terminal at the end of the cable. If there is any
dullness, it is beginning to oxidize and you'll need to clean the lead
surface, preferably with a sharp knife, or other sharp edge, until it's
shiny clean. Clean just enough to remove the oxidation, do not take
too much of the lead. There are commercial battery terminal cleaner
tools and if used properly they can do a good job. The sharp edged tools
are usually more effective than the wire brush kind. A tough crusty
oxidation can build up inside the terminal that can be very difficult
to remove, especially after a great while. The wire type terminal cleaners
are ok if you do this procedure several times a year but they are largely
ineffective on built up crusted oxidation. The Positive terminal of
a battery seems to be most susceptible to oxidation and corrosion. Many
times people with older automobiles think their battery is about to
die when it will hardly turn the engine over. They are surprised to
learn that the battery is fine but the terminals were so oxidized or
corroded that the current could not flow. It's a lot of amperes trying
to flow and they need a clean circuit.
d. The type of oxidation mentioned in the above section is fundamentally
different than corrosion. Although both are caused by the acid atmosphere
in and around the batteries, corrosion is much more sinister. The crust
and/or cable looseness can cause the car to stop. Corrosion eats the
car alive. Aluminum and steel frames alike!
Aluminum frames handle seaside salt air better than steel but both are the vegetable de jour to battery acid. Here again the positive terminals generally take the brunt of the corrosion but the negative posts will corrode as well. If they are badly corroded, you will need to do some serious cleaning. Here you may need to remove the cable ends from the battery, soak them in neutralizer, wire brush the metal ends and then carefully inspect them. If the ends are ok, firmly wire brush or scrape the battery post clean, reinstall the cable on the battery and tighten the nuts securely to the battery post (is the terminal bolt & nut clean too? Don't contaminate a clean cable end with corroded hardware).
Corrosion can appear as thick yellow goop (sometimes gooey, sometimes hard), white powdery fluff or as bluish goo. Sometimes these different kinds are on the same terminal or post or battery rack. This is never a good thing, as corrosion seems to beget more corrosion. Real trouble comes when it starts to get on the frame of the car. Wave goodbye to the battery rack…and part of the car frame in severe cases. And it is so easy to prevent! Just hose off that battery and rack several times a year. No big deal! If the battery rack corrosion is bad enough, you will need to remove the battery and clean the rack and battery hold down bracket. After a thorough cleaning, allow it dry and treat the metal with a protectant. This will give you a head start on preventing future corrosion.
Bare
metal will rust and corrode much faster than properly treated metal.
A paint based treatment is not recommended because when the paint dries
the acid atmosphere will cause it to flake away, soon exposing the metal
rack to new corrosion. NOTE: Don't overlook the importance of the brackets
that hold the battery firmly in place. The manufacturer would not include
these items if they were not needed. They keep the battery from rattling
around while the car moves over rough terrain. This protects the fragile
plates that allow the liquid electrolyte to freely course through the
sponge like pores that allows the battery to convert chemicals into
electricity. Also, in the event of an accident, the hold down brackets
keep the battery in place so it does not end up somewhere it's not supposed
to be, like your chest or head.
STEP 3 - Finalizing the Spring Prep:
a.
Recharge your 12-volt battery to a full charge. Charge it with your
home charger for a couple of hours or until the charger ammeter drops
near zero.
b. Check the tire pressures and inflate to 20–25 psi. If
you have had any problems with a slow leaking tire, don't waste your
time with the foam 'Fix-a-Flat' stuff. It will not work permanently.
I reccommend taking it to a tire professional and ahving it plugged
(it's only about $5) or resealed. While you are down there filling the
tires, look at the tread and sidewalls. The tire tread wear should be
even across the entire width of the tire. If the center is worn too
much the tire may be over inflated. If the outer edges are worn away
then a chronic air leak is indicated, maybe due to weather-cracked sidewalls
or a pesky tee. If one front tire is worn a lot more than the other,
or the tread has signs of feathering or scrubbing, then a front-end
alignment may be needed.
c. In order to keep your steering system running smooth and to
prevent any metal-to-metal deterioration, it is recommended that your
car be greased at least once a year. For those of you who use the car
year round or use the car above and beyond 'normal' usage', you may
need to do this twice a year. A simple grease gun is required for this
tep. With the key 'OFF' and preferably far away from the car, jack up
the front end. Always use jack stands or blocks of some kind when you
are under the car. Never trust a jack to hold fast and you can never
be too safe. The minute you let your guard done in situations under
the car, bad things can happen. On each tie rod end and some steering
parts, there will be a grease 'nipple'. Gently place the end of the
grease gun onto the grease nipple. Be sure the end seats over the nipple.
You will feel the resistance as it seats. Gently squeeze a COUPLE OF
SQUIRTS of grease into each nipple. Do not fill to the point where grease
is running out everywhere. If this happens clean away the excess right
away. Grease is a magnet for dirt and if there is grease all over the
tie rod ends, dirt will follow. Once abrasive dirt attaches to the excess
grease, it will gradually work into the tie rod ends and cause damage.
Most golf cars have grease fittings with only a few exceptions. Don't
waste your time looking for grease fittings on a Yamaha, because there
isn't a single one. They have a closed system which supposedly never
needs grease (It actually works pretty well).
d. The beginning of the season is also a good time to be sure
your brakes are working. It doesn't do a lot of good to have a great
running golf car that can't stop. Begin (with the key off and on flat
ground) by pressing the brake pedal. Feel to be sure the pedal doesn't
feel mushy or weak. If the pedal tension does feel weak, you may need
to make an adjustment at the turnbuckle or compensator assembly where
the cables attach to the pedal underneath the floorboard. Check the
cables while you're down there fro wear or unraveling. If the pedal
tension feels ok, but you still aren't stopping quick enough, you may
need to adjust the brakes or replace the shoes. Any of these components
or combinations thereof may need replacing or adjusting to achieve the
proper tension.
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